Something light, nonchalant and seemingly effortless. That was Jonathan Anderson's Dior SS27 collection, delivered in the heat of an Autumn day at the Jardin des Tuileries. Speaking before the show to 10, Anderson explained, “When I designed this space, I wanted to revisit it a few times. I saw the same image of trees in Oregon shrouded in fog. This inspired my exploration of lightness and watercolours, particularly the layering of chiffon. By layering the different elements, I achieved a blurred effect."

The ten layers of chiffon were layered on top of each other to create, “a more fluid collection, experimenting with different cutting techniques," he said. "Looking at things quintessentially - Dior in construction - but then building them all out of chiffon, like a dress [flowing] behind. And the embroideries, they're incredibly light.” Anderson took inspiration from the archives incorporating prints featuring geraniums and various flowers. “These prints are layered with plisse fabric,” he added.

Men’s tailoring was also explored but “all cut in silk and slightly padded, creating a more evening-like, spongy texture. Cashmere with shearling and python were handwoven and cashmere boucle: "a material we’ve been exploring in couture.” All the expert flou and lightness added up to some serious romance, an intimacy too, that lifted everyone watching. “There’s a romantic quality to this," he said. "I wanted a romantic vibe, something that would create a residue behind as it moves… moving it backwards. This is why I feel the trees, water and smoke blur into it, like a Gerard Richter painting where everything becomes blurred.”

This was a shift, a soft blur with less heaviness at play, as the clothes swayed and floated around Le Bassin Octaganol, exceptional in their resolved craftsmanship. “We want something pretty, light and colourful, optimistic, but not too much. I think for me this whole year was about this arc of trying to explore something - or kind of trying to rattle the brand to see what falls out of it. I think everyone has such a perceived idea of what it should be... I always think Dior has this, kind of, like, broken aristocracy. There's something a bit, slightly off, the shoes, never quite right… and the idea of mixing men and woman becomes slightly, I don't know... you think of great icons like Stella Tennant in that world. I keep saying it, but… what is the new aristocracy today?” We think It is evolving and will be wearing Dior in the garden as the sun rises... or night swimming in the Tuileries. We were watching a designer in progress, relaxing into his role. And exhale.

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