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SCHIAPARELLI: COUTURE SS23

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One word: epic. And Daniel Rosebery does it very nicely at Schiaparelli. Even before the show began at the Petit Palais, Kylie Jenner with faux (obviously) lion’s head and Doja Cat in top-to-toe tiny red paillettes had dialled things up. Entitled “Inferno” - hence the devilish Doja - Dante’s 1308 poem The Divine Comedy had inspired Rosebery. And while the themes of doubt, torment and risk taking were explored by its creator these looks were emphatically fantastical. Accomplished. Expert. Exquisite. The leopard, the lion (hence Jenner) and the she-wolf of the original poem representing lust, pride and avarice were faux-taxidermied into amazing looks made by hand from foam, and resin and worn by models including Shalom Harlow and Naomi Campbell. The program notes delivered a thoughtful inner wrestling with the nature of creativity but here it all was, look after look that caused a standing ovation. From the secretly corseted waists in the expertly tailored jackets to the sculptural, the collection explored textures of broken glass, shell marquetry plastron, brass keyhole detailing, and rooster feathers. It was awesome. 

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