If the Miu Miu girl was graduating high school and going to college in recent collections, then this season, she’s working on her masters. Her dissertation might be along the lines of what Miuccia Prada was thinking about for SS23: “This collection is about fashion born from reality, and born for reality, to be placed back into that context. Because times are difficult, it does not mean we should not create. But we have to ensure every piece has purpose and reason. This is not a time for meaningless fashion.”  Inside the show space a larger-than-life projection of the moon lit up the room, with the voice of artist Shuang Li speaking poetically about travelling to the other side of the world, “circling around the sun one more round.” The Miu Miu girl is more low-key this season, a direct reflection of Mrs Prada’s belief that fashion is a reaction to the world around us, and so, there was a lot of fine layering of t-shirts and cashmere, deep functional utilitarian pockets bounced on jackets and slip skirts were low rise. Yes, the iconic Miu Miu mini has gone midi, belted by velcro fastening- although the mini did still exist here with cheeky ribbed underwear peeking out from under. The Miu Miu girl continues to have a good time: sparkling embroidery and sequins shined and neon pink and orange heels flashed.

“This is not an easy moment to create fashion,” said Mrs Prada. “For this collection, I wanted to explore the purpose of fashion, its reason. Its usefulness in society and in culture today. Fashion can have a meaning and a reason beyond utility - to decorate, to attract, is a meaning. But it is important that fashion functions - I am not anti-luxury but I am anti-ostentation.” The collection felt like an added layer of strength and confidence for the Miu Miu girl, including the perfect fit for the brand, FKA Twigs who closed the show in the brand’s ‘uniform’: a satin utility belted mini skirt and navy knit layered over a white shirt. Meaningful Miu Miu for the times. 

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