The newly opened Melbourne Winter Masterpieces exhibition Cartier at the NGV is a profound experience. There is so much to see - more than 350 pieces of jewellery and 450 objects are on display, with 300 never before seen in Australia.

From the opening Manchester Tiara (1903), to personal letters exchanged between members of the Cartier family - some written during World War II - and a hand-drawn, doodled book of ideas in black ink dating back to 1904; through to the closing room, featuring some of the most notable and exceptionally beautiful tiaras ever assembled, this exhibition - transferred from the V&A in London - is brilliant. It is a wonderful explosion of emeralds (did you know emeralds are defined by the jardin within?), glowing rubies, sapphires and diamonds sparkling furiously, radiating colour and refracting light. There are opals too - mysterious and luminous, originally sourced from Lightning Ridge - and jade.

One of the most fabulous pieces is the jade necklace made in 1934 for Barbara Hutton, heiress to the US Woolworth's fortune and the woman behind the phrase "too rich to walk". Featuring gooseberry-sized jade beads, it is extraordinary. She, famously, was carried to her car. The list of standouts is endless - all defined by creativity, exquisite craftsmanship and pure wow. Expect audible gasps.

Other personal favourites include the wonderfully whimsical Head Ornament from 1924. With its delicate tracery of diamonds, platinum and feathers, it practically begs to dance. Then there is the tiara gifted to Nancy Astor by her husband, Viscount Astor, on New Year's Eve in 1930. With its exquisitely detailed Egyptian-style carved turquoise, diamonds and platinum, it is breathtaking.

And then there is the wild ride that is the Patiala Necklace - a special commission created in 1928 for the Maharaja of Patiala. It contains 2,930 diamonds and two rubies, which are really just the supporting cast for the spectacular 234.65-carat yellow De Beers diamond at its centre.

Go for the panthers, the tigers, the crocodiles, the flamingo, the birds, the garlands and the extraordinary secret watches. Stay for the contemporary icons. There is also a fantastic film wall featuring clips from movies in which Cartier jewellery has appeared.

The NGV's monolithic ground-floor exhibition space has been brilliantly conceived, with rooms defined by soft colours inspired by the essence of Cartier and the rich hues of its gemstones, culminating in a single black, jewel-lined room that feels deliciously 1970s.

Cartier Melbourne Winter Masterpieces has some serious swagger. Every piece tells a fascinating story woven with intrigue, love, passion and loss. The exhibition raises the bar internationally and is a testament to the talented teams at both the V&A and the NGV, who have brought it to life so brilliantly and showcased Cartier so eloquently.

The Melbourne Winter Masterpieces exhibition Cartier will be on display at NGV International from 12 June – 4 October 2026.

cartier.com