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DRIES VAN NOTEN: AW23

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Were we in some strange, 1990s dystopia perhaps? Seated in a giant stadium the models walked slowly around the edges of the lines of seating criss crossing a giant mirrored stage, reflecting the audience and a lone drummer. Introspection. The collection was an ode to a bygone era, a time when experimentation with deconstructed fabrics and shapes was the go and a reaction to the shiny, glossy decade of 80s success/excess.  Belted wool coats were etched with waists of ragged gold foil; bias cut chiffon tea dresses hung as elegantly as any 1930s gown and unfinished raw edges added a softer faded femininity to the darker masculine tailoring at play here and everywhere this season.

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