Maria Grazia Chiuri has been at Dior since 2016. And is fairly pumping. We all know she champions women against the odds in many proactive ways but especially within her messaging and through the wider cultural world. She loves working with artists in particular and this set - a colossal piece created by Joana Vasconcelos for the AW23 show was totally epic, an escapism - even before the first look. But we shall come back to that. Constructed from Dior remnants the giant octopus-like being hung low in the magical blue depths of the tent in the Jardin de Tuileries, lit up like a twinkling carousel in the fairground.

It gave a wonder and framed a sense of mystery. The collection had a nervy energy from the mid calf hose fine socks worn with nicely curving heels, to the looks that had so much swish and edge. Although this was a winter collection it offered sunshine and almost a sense of Italy perhaps too in Gina Lollobrigida rolled up voile shirt sleeves and circle full skirts. The Bar jacket was extra flicky and the super crumpled silk pencil skirts nicely fitted. Perhaps Ms Dior  had been out all night. The houndstooth was nicely tiny. The chintz pattern on 1950s cocktail dresses just right. Edith Piaf’s  ‘Je ne regrette rien’ played in the build up to the finale - also on t-shirts - it was a strong sentiment. But our favourite was Ovule (feat. Shygirl) [Sega Bodega Remix] by Björk and we were there - Biophilia under the Vasconcelos…. 97 looks no regrets.

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