Roberto Cavalli was a key figure amongst the Italian designers, like Gianni Versace and Dolce & Gabanna, who favoured a plush sexiness in their collections, and for whom rich fabrics, hourglass curves and tight tailoring were integral to their success.  

This sexy image meant the faces and bodies of Kate Moss, Gisele Bundchen or Cindy Crawford poured into one of Cavalli's opulent creations featured in advertising campaigns and on the red carpet across the globe.

Roberto Cavalli was born on November 15^th 1940 in Florence. When he was four years old, his father was murdered by the Nazis as a reprisal for an attack by the Italian resistance. Subsequently, Cavalli was raised by his mother, along with his sister, at the home of his grandfather Giuseppe Rossi, a painter. At 17 he enrolled at the Florence Arts Institute where it quickly became apparent his specialist area was textiles. His fashion career started in 1960 with his wild floral prints on knitwear. In 1964 he married for the first time and his first daughter Christiana (now president of the company) was born in 1965.

The Cavalli emphasis on opulence in fabric was demonstrated in 1968 when he showed at the Prêt a Porter in Paris with exotic printed leathers. This same year his son Tommaso was born. Cavalli was now ready to launch under his own label and by 1971 he was invited to show at the prestigious Pitti Palace in Florence. At this time the heart of the catwalk season in Italy, alongside the new wave of Italian designers. This is the time when Cavalli establishes many of his signatures; metallics e(specially on leather), patch working with an emphasis on denim and the wild statement dressing which attracts an International clientele, many from what in those days was referred to as the “jet set”. Indeed when it was discovered that Brigitte Bardot shops for Cavalli, he opens a boutique called Limbo in St Tropez.

When he was asked to be a judge on the Miss Universe panel in San Domingo in 1978 he met and fell in love with the winner, Eva Duringer from Austria, and in 1980 they are married. The 80’s are the period where Cavalli soft pedalled his career and enjoyed family life; his daughter Rachele is born in 1982 and he announces his retirement and Danielle his second son arrives in 1986. Collections continued to be shown only in Dusseldorf and New York.

Yet in the best tradition of Italian opera the final act of Cavalli's life proved to be the most exciting. In1990 Eva joins the business and in the same year stretch jeans with a sand blasted treatment made the name Cavalli headline fashion news once more. In 1993 Robin another son, and the fifth of the Cavalli children, was born and in 1994 Cavalli himself returns. His profile soared and through the 90’s into the 21^st century the distinctive style of Cavalli grew internationally.

A new generation of stars discovered the Cavalli look including Liz Hurley and Christina Aguilera.

Shops opened in St Tropez, Venice, Rome, Marbella and Capri, new lines which included sunglasses, watches, scarves, lingerie, interiors and childrenswear were developed and Just Cavalli launched in 1998 to introduce a younger version of his fashion vision. A fragrance for women launched in 2000 allowing the consumer to experience the total Cavalli lifestyle; there was even a Cavalli nightclub.

In 2007 he collaborated on a collection for H&M and the subsequent stampedes for the budget price versions of the Cavalli look demonstrated how established his image had become.

The Cavalli signature always remained true to his textile beginnings; layering lavish fabrics in clashing and contrasting textures and patterns. Animal prints were a special signature alongside opulent brocades, leathers like satin and exotic patterning from across the globe.

In his 40^th anniversary year 2010/11 he celebrated in extravagant style both in Milan and Paris, Gisele was once more swathed in the leopard print chiffons of Cavalli, proving his signature style is eternal

He favoured a body conscious silhouette both for women and men. Draped sexiness, often with gravity defying slashes characterised his resort and evening wear.

As with the late Gianni Versace the quality of fabric, cut and finish lifted the collections to a high level and attracted an international clientele including Victoria Beckham, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Jennifer Lopez, Lenny Kravitz, Madonna and Drew Barrymore. His five children and wife survive him.

Portrait by Giovanni Giannoni.
Words by Tony Glenville.