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The easiest way for a New York Fashion Week show to stand out is surprisingly simple – do what you know best and do it well. This is what makes Proenza Schouler a success, season after season. After dabbling with monograms, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez returned to the sleek, city-friendly minimalist looks that their fans love. For their AW24 show, it was back to basics in more than one way. Per the show notes, the duo explored the friction between two rudimentary needs – protecting oneself from the chaos of the outside world while also satisfying a desire to connect and engage. How does this conflict play out? Clothing that at once feels satisfyingly showy without being overly flashy.

Yes, you can call it quiet luxury but the name would imply that the two were jumping on a trend, versus having two decades of experience creating beautiful clothing that women want to wear. The choices come next autumn are plentiful. Featuring clean, long lines rendered in shearling, double-face cashmere, leather, silk, and lace, the play in contrasts is evident as sturdy fabrics were contrasted with diaphanous materials. With a neutral palette featuring plenty of black, gray, white, as well as dashes of red and gold, everything feels like it would integrate seamlessly, without jarring one’s sense of self.

As for the hits? The outerwear proved to be strong, especially a cream shearling coat and a black parka. Long sleeve dresses in white, red, and peach were also eye-catching and destined to be hits while tailored jackets and suiting offered practicality. And for those seeking to show skin, the cropped knits worn over coordinating maxi skirts are sure to be favourites.