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HERMÈS: MENSWEAR SS23

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To the historic Manufacture Des Gobelins for the Hermès SS23 collection. This is the home of the fabulous Gobelins tapestries, the factory where they have been woven since the 15th century for royalty and nobility - and are still manufactured today. A most Hermès kind of environment, a place of absolute creativity and artisanal lineage. Naturally some of the 200 artisans here also work with Hermes. The collection was presented in the cobblestone courtyard in mild drizzle (although all guests were presented with Rain jackets and umbrellas). The runway was a gesture with a curiously random bolt of fabric unfurling the length of the enclave - disappearing up into the workroom windows. A whisper of Christo perhaps by the set designer Cyril Teste.

And so they strolled forth in Summery hues invitingly called lemonade, melon, lilac, and bubble gum. Cashmere turtlenecks reflected a sunset; boxy shirts were printed with jaunty crayfish and seahorses - the collection captured all the joyfulness, promise and lightness of a summer to be lived in short shorts with perfectly proportioned windbreakers. A breeze. Bucket hats, fabulous neoprene sandals and a slew of great bags include the Bolide Good Vibes summed it all up. Nonchalance achieved. And exhale.

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