GUCCI: SS26
And, action. Cue Demna, pre-film - no, not pre-show, as that comes next season - super relaxed, taking it all in his stride, smiling and chatting to people about being at the cinema. There is a sense of newfound freedom to this Demna at Gucci. A designer doing something that feels right.
The Tiger, a film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn is dark, irreverent and nicely overloaded with style, serving as a showcase for the new limited edition collection La Famiglia, which is available in select stores tomorrow until October 12. The cast was bristling with A-list actors: Demi Moore playing the fictitious Barbara Gucci, matriarch of the dysfunctional family, with a crazy chaotic neurotic energy; Ed Harris as the fabulous writer from Vanity Fair; Edward Norton tripping out and listening to the walls; Keke Palmer; and cameos from Alex Consani and Kendall Jenner. Tension, drama, chaos, desperation. Rich bitch. AI beings, AI Earthquakes. It had it all. As Moore entered the screening in her Oscar-worthy gold Gucci dress that she also wears in the film, the audience clapped and other cast members in “costume” were seated too. There’s nothing like a Hollywood fashion moment.
“From the very beginning, I shaped the collection by imagining a constellation of characters, asking myself what Gucci means to me, from its archive to the many identities it embodies,” Demna told WWD. “I gathered an imaginary family to carry the story, each figure holding a fragment of the broader narrative. Since my first show will be in February, I felt like the story of La Famiglia should be told through a short film. I shared it with Spike and Halina, whose work I’ve long admired, and they created their film, ‘The Tiger,’ inspired by these characters.”
This was compelling, big budget Gucci, around 33 minutes long, ushering in the new era of Demna who is delivering nonchalance with his reinterpretation of the house. He didn’t focus on the heritage but simply chose things that resonated, going right back to the beginning and referencing the earliest luggage. Monogrammed traveling trunks felt fresh, slick and light, and of course there were traces of Tom Ford’s Gucci too in hints of sexy minimalism for all the maximalism.
Demna has only been in the role since July but has delivered already producing a new polished version of his hand writing, by the side of a beaming Francois-Henri Pinault and an equally happy - and only one week into her role of President and CEO of Gucci - Francesca Belletini.
Tomorrow the 41 piece collection lands in store at 10 flagship boutiques worldwide. It is a clever strategy, one that hits every touch point if you love fashion. The collection included a new play on the iconic Flora; the classic Gucci stripe and nods to bamboo. Before the screening Demna told WWD that it’s “baby steps” but this felt like a giant leap. No more holding back now at Gucci.