Calvin Klein Collection’s first spring show under Veronica Leoni was a study in duality. At the Brant Foundation’s sleek gallery space downtown, the designer presented her Spring 2026 collection to a front row that included Solange Knowles, Christopher Briney, Lily Collins, and new campaign faces Rosalía and Jung Kook.

If her debut collection served as an introduction to her take on Calvin Klein’s minimalist DNA, this sophomore effort revealed Leoni’s growing comfort with the brand’s contradictions. Her concept of “Calvin Klein-ism” translated into clothes that embodied what the brand calls in the show notes “magnified normality” – everyday pieces elevated through exceptional cuts and unexpected details.

“Calvin Klein has always been a brand that belongs to the people and presents a true lifestyle offering rooted in minimalism, modernity and an American sensibility,” says Leoni in a post-show release. “With my second Collection I wanted to express this feeling of Calvin Klein as a way of being rather than a way of appearing.”

In the show notes, the designer lists the American archetypes that inspired her: “working class heroes and ladies who lunch; cheerleaders and their beaus; urban gals venturing out to get their coffee with keys in hand; denim-attired beautiful hustlers. They all have their way with clothing.” It’s subtle, but these influences show in Leoni’s sharply tailored suits, silky gowns, workwear-inspired pieces, headscarves paired with dresses, and literal organza pom-poms.

Leoni’s “9am meets 9pm” philosophy manifested in pieces that moved seamlessly between contexts – trench coats and jackets that could handle a coffee run or a late dinner, butter-yellow leather slips that worked as both intimate wear and evening statements. Plus, the occasional pop of pink, red, and Kelly green. The collection’s footwear wouldn’t be out of place on a New York City street: thong sandals, boots, and sneaker-soled moccasins made each look wearable.

The brand’s infamous undergarments also made a statement this season. Tailored jackets with scooped necklines revealed a peep of a bra, while flowing silk slip dresses suggested a languid morning after. The iconic Calvin Klein printed waistbands were repurposed as eyeglass straps, doubled up on a pair of long johns, and woven into an eye-catching tweed dress. Underwear as outerwear, indeed.

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