Nearly all of the pieces of the new designer puzzle neatly slotted into place as Pierpaolo Piccioli debuted at Balenciaga. This was a collection thrumming with life, classic PPP colour, craftsmanship and a nice dark chic edge. The 1958 inspired ‘neo gazar’ fabric allowed for the lightest sculptural play and the original sack dress from 1957 informed so many looks, each razor sharp in shape, or perfectly ‘ballon’.

The dresses were like tempting candy, each wonderfully coloured and crunchy, some with mega beads or fluttering with feathers. Demna-esque shields were a nice nod to his predecessor and provided the sense of continuation that we are seeing from the successors. The high hats were a reference to Nicolas Ghesquiere’s tenure at Balenciaga (1997-2012) and a slight nod too in the mini pea coat. Touches of the past, but this was a new beginning. It soared.

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