TEN TALKS TO BASSIKE

It’s all happening right now for bassike: co-founders Deborah Sams and Mary Lou Ryan just won the Australian Fashion Laureate award for Sustainable Innovation of the Year and the brand is celebrating 15 years of business. We like a milestone moment. As the new Resort collection ‘Pause’ (above) drops in store, we spoke to Deborah and Mary Lou about the 15 year journey, achieving carbon neutrality, music and what’s to come:
Congratulations on 15 years! Thinking back to when you began, did you imagine the brand would be where it is now? What has surprised you about the journey?
Mary Lou Ryan: "We launched the brand with a very clear ethos, centred on local, ethical manufacturing and the use of GOTS certified organic cotton – a lot has changed in the last 15 years, but this is still what bassike is about at its core. It has been a wonderfully vibrant journey as we have expanded our product offering, store footprint and our team – designing from a beachside shack in palm beach all those years ago, we never would have thought this is what bassike could and would become, but I’m so glad the fashion industry and our bassike community believed in what we stood for and has supported us at every step along the way.’
How has your design process evolved? Do you still look to the same places for inspiration? What has been the hardest challenge?
Deborah Sams: “I’ve always had a very instinctive approach to design – thinking about the way I like to dress, and what our bassike customer wants and needs in their wardrobe for seasons to come. As we’ve continued to build out our mainline and accessories collections in more recent years, I still come back to this initial focus on function and utility. I draw a lot of inspiration from the tactile nature of our luxurious fabrications, often sourced from heritage mills in Europe, as well as the beautiful natural landscape we are so lucky to be immersed in on Sydney’s Northern Beaches and Australia more broadly.”
What has been the most rewarding part of the journey?
MLR: “Treating people and planet with respect has always been part of the bassike philosophy. Watching all our work in this space be recognised and utilised as encouragement for brands and consumers to make more conscious choices has been so fulfilling – winning the 2021 Australian Fashion Laureate for Sustainable Innovation of the Year has really cemented that we are on the right track. As an industry we still have a long way to go, but I’m so proud of our place challenging and pushing forward fashion’s responsible business movement.”
Bassike is so focused on using locally and sustainably sourced materials - you also achieved carbon neutrality across all activities recently. Can you pinpoint when sustainability began to play a more important factor in your world?
MLR: “Sustainability has always been important to us – that is why we made conscious decisions from the very beginning, to ensure we were working with reputable partners and doing things the right way. Presenting two carbon neutral shows at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week, as well as taking the organisation to Climate Active Carbon Neutral certified earlier this year was a huge milestone for the brand, but it is only the first step as we look to continuously improve and innovate across every part of our business."
Which design has been the most popular over the 15 years?
DS: “Our organic cotton jersey collection that we launched the brand with 15 years ago are still some of our bestselling pieces today, which really speaks to the quality and timelessness of our garments – we spent a long time perfecting our original exclusive jersey fabrication, which we still knit in Melbourne and use in our collections today! I have a very androgynous sense of style, which really comes through in our tailoring and slouch fit pants – both bassike signature styles that remain popular and are regular highlights for our customer each season.”
How has the bassike lover evolved?
DS: “Our customer and community is very loyal, they have stuck by us and worn bassike for many years. There has been a huge education piece for us, as we have introduced denim, mainline and accessories collections – taking the time to showcase how each new iteration of the bassike collection can slide seamlessly into your existing wardrobe. While we have continued to evolve our collections with new fabrications, colours and silhouettes, every bassike garment still links back to our heritage and brand DNA; such as twisted seams, signature contrast chainstitching and utility inspired details."
Do you have a favourite moment/s over the last 15 years?
DS: “Watching our retail business evolve in recent years has been such a highlight – the expansion of our boutique footprint with brand new flagships in Avalon, Double Bay and James St have been particularly poignant. These spaces are so considered and reflective of the brand, and really help elevate the bassike experience for both new and long-time customers."
What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learnt? Do you have a mantra?
MLR: “Every day is a new day and there is always a solution – deal with things as they present and don’t wait. Collaborating with your team and partners is the key to your success, so always take the time to be present and listen.”
Advice to aspiring designers?
DS: “Take the time to listen and learn from mentors and people entrenched in every facet of the industry – never underestimate the value of wisdom and experience.”
What’s on the Bassike celebratory playlist?
DS: “‘Cold Heart (PNAU Remix)’ by Elton John and Dua Lipa has been on very high rotation in my household – partly me and partly my son Jett, who demands it is played on repeat!”
MLR: “Music for me needs to bring joy and a feeling of nostalgia. I have been listening to the album Actual Life by Fred Again.., my favourite track is ‘Julia (Deep Diving)’. I also love Black Puma’s track ‘Colours’ and Jamie XX’s album In Colour.”
What’s next?
MLR: “We will continue to forge our own path with responsible business and creative innovations front of mind, while staying true to our heritage as an Australian brand with an elevated but easy aesthetic.”
Above image: Abény wears bassike Resort 2022 collection, photographed by Sonny.