It's a new dawn, a new day, a new phase for Albus Lumen. Nostalgia, faith and future were the words on Marina Afonina's mind for the Resort 2024 collection. This is Phase II, a rebirth of the elements of Albus Lumen's past, bringing them into the now. Grounded in knitwear, made in collaboration with the Woolmark Company, the collection takes inspiration from the ocean and nature with its tonal palette. Pearly silk dresses, quilted mini dresses and tailored menswear make up Albus Lumen's second unisex collection. We spoke to Marina about the evolution of the brand before the show:

What was inspiring you when you were designing this collection?

"The collection was inspired by emotion. Emotion to reach my highest intention and desire for the show. If you put it in 3 words it would be - Nostalgia, Faith and Future."

What was the catalyst from the inspiration? What really made the leap from the mood board into the collection?

"As soon as I decided to showcase for Fashion Week this year i had a clear vision from colour palette, mood, music, show set. It all evolved around it and I stayed true to my inner self through the whole process which made it very pleasant, in control and very intent which is a great feeling."

What emotions and thoughts from you are imbued in these pieces?

Nostalgia - the feeing of appreciation of the past and achievements. Faith - having a drive to concur and Future - looking forward to see what is yet to come."

How is the DNA of the brand evolving?

"I called this collection 'PHASE II' which means elevating the brand and taking it to another dimension. Being more creative with fabric, shapes and textures. We have introduced quilting, beading which leads us to the new categories. We also continuing working with Woolmark Company for all our tailoring and some evening wear which you'll see a lot this season. And a Touch of Bridal, which was exciting to bring back."

Recycling, repurposing, renewal. These are all important in the world of 10. How do these apply to your work?

All of the above is very important to us . We are super conscious about being sustainable. We don't over produce, mainly it's all made to order for wholesalers and super small runs for our own stock. Recycling our fabrics constantly, as we only use natural fibres and our colour palette is neutral most of the time we have an opportunities for repurposing and renewal also which helps. i am a true believer then it comes down to production chain - less is more 100%. Also we make it all here in Sydney, which i am very proud of."

Who would be your bullseye buyer?

"I would love for Albus Lumen to be stocked on SSENSE for both menswear and womenswear... it's brave, interesting and always feels current."

Who would you love to see wearing it? Which look would they be wearing?

"I would love Harry Styles to rock any of our men's looks... He is confident dresser and i admire his flamboyance. He appreciates colour and texture, very Albus Lumen. For women is a bit harder to choose, but i have always loved Malgosia Bela - she would be my dream women -refined, understated, confident and natural. If i think of someone Australian - I think Sarah Murdoch has always been my muse, she is elegant, sophisticated and gracious."

There are brilliant people to collaborate with in Australia. Who has been part of your world?

I am extremely lucky as I have the best, creative friends around me who give me constant support and inspire me everyday. My Fashion Team for RT24 season is my ultimate - how would you say, OG of Albus Lumen: Travis Balcke, Filomena Natoli, Tiffany Shaw, Nikkie Dé Saint, Nikki Andrews, Lizzi Leighton Clark and many more."

What's important to you aside from fashion?

"The most important thing in my life is family. Second important thing is to stay true to yourself."

What is the soundtrack to this collection?

"Main song and inspiration for me for RT24 is song by AHA “Summer moved on” - lyrics of that song truly makes me emotional every time I listen to it, and believe me it's at least 10 times everyday, especially while I am driving. The soundtrack was mixed by Nikkie Dé Saint the original girl, of Albus Lumen for sure - she did my first show back in 2016. She truly understands me and my aesthetic for my music taste. The songs that we chose are" Antonio Veneziano by Stelvio Cipriani, Emmanuel by Michel Colombier and final track is Hello Marylin by Vladini Cosma. All these songs means a lot to me and have an emotional connection."

Photographed backstage by Joel Lumbroso and Aidan Oh.

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