LOUIS VUITTON: CRUISE 2022
To infinity and beyond! The Louis Vuitton Cruise '22 show was infused with the optimistic spirit of the space age, which, thanks to Space X and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin, is about it get its second wind. In the Axe Majeur complex, just outside Paris, Nicolas Ghesquièrefound an idealized landscape, akin to a Starfleet city. The place was built by the humanist artist Dani Karavan in 1981, as a monumental art installation and Ghesquière’s models walked on or through his vast arrangement of columns, amphitheaters and the full span of its centerpiece bridge.Ghesquière’s fascination with space and time infuses everything he does. He talked of stargates and imaginary portals and described himself as a “ritual futurist”. Inspired by the dawning new age of space tourism, the designer imagined what future space visitors might wear for an interplanetary cruise and the mood was resolutely upbeat. The collection thrilled with joyful colour and jubilant energy.
The show opened with roomy red patent coat – a nod perhaps to the ultimate space-age designer, André Courrèges. Many pieces were adorned with prints depicting the aspirational lunar lifestyle, complete with basketball courts, space suits and landscaped space rocks – the Jetsons would approve. Mini shifts adorned with gold buttons struck a retro-futurist note, whilst vivid boots and cadet jackets had the on-parade look of a futuristic marching band. Rich, mixed textures of print, applique, jacquard and emboss featured on fantastic oversize bomber jackets. Feathers burst on full sleeves, eighties-shouldered fluttering blouses, and crunchy crystalline knits provided a spangled evening flourish. These weren’t simple clothes, but they were simply great. Ghesquière summed it up best, describing it as a collection of “proud, positive” looks.