The final day of the Paris shows burnt with a bright spark thanks to Craig Green, who returned to showing in the city for the first time in two years. Green has consistently proven himself to be one of the most talented menswear designers working today; his collections, steered by emotion and profound innovation have each pushed the needle. Not only when it comes to his own abilities as a designer, but also how his clothes evolve classic menswear tropes, taking the familiar to exciting new realms.

Staged inside Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, models trudged along golden sand in Green’s most colourful outing to date. He’d been looking to the 1960s for inspiration, particularly The Beatles, who had produced some of their most boundary-pushing work during the decade thanks to discovering LSD. Models came with lights for eyes, as if seeing into another dimension, clad in distorted military shirts that migrated into skirts, each perforated with chintzy florals. More flower power came courtesy of clashing floral coats and billowing trousers overlayed with skirts and shirts sliced and diced to look car wash blinds, each ensemble inspired by ‘60s bedsheets, bringing some psychedelic panache to the collection.

Amongst the trippier moments were pieces that could slide into your wardrobe with ease. Parkas that resembled fisherman uniforms – a Green signature – were met with plaid trench coats, tender knits and an excellent continuation of the designer’s Fred Perry collab including striped rugby shirts and knitted polos. Expect to see such pieces coveted by the fashion set in the coming months.

Watching the show you couldn’t help but wonder what it would be like if Green was allowed to unleash his magic on a major menswear house. Not that he needs it, of course; his eponymous label is clearly in a league of its own.

craiggreen.com