Toni Maticevski triumphantly made his return to Australian Fashion Week after 10 years this week with a collection that allowed him to "let loose, be creative and not worry too much about the commerciality of it". Speaking 10 Magazine Australia backstage before the show, he said: "All these things naturally came to me... fabrication, the colour palette, these tribal elements. Japanese volumes started emerging. I'm not one of those designers who sits with a concept and focuses on that." Maticevski hasn't had a mood board since he was 22 years old, so not to get too "stuck in a space that doesn't resonate with other people".

The Maticevski dream and fantasy, that he acknowledges his customer comes to him for, was very much alive here. Cleverly sculpted crepe and organza unfurled in a calm colour palette of muted pink, stone, pure white and deep black. The final two looks felt very black swan, with boned structures rising above the model's heads: "I was really just finding new ways to play and excite myself creatively," the designer said of those looks. "I feel like every look is a reflection of the model walking as well, highlighting their energy." The Maticevski energy is cool, calm and collected.

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