To celebrate 25 years, Lee Mathews reflected on the codes of her brand's DNA: a focused, free-spirited and grounded freshness. There was an inner strength to these pieces and a determined practicality. In collaboration with Sydney-based artist Nina Walton, who echoed the meditative and rhythmic nature of the loom, the collection moved in a state of flow and fluidity. We spoke to Lee about this milestone moment:

What was inspiring you when you were designing this special collection? What was the catalyst?

The idea began with a ballet rehearsal. I’ve always admired Pina Bausch and the way she approached choreography. It made me think about the pieces dancers wear to rehearse, the layering, the sheer tights, the soft skin tones. That same tension between strength and softness is something we often explore, especially when revisiting our archive. These are shapes we’ve come back to time and again, always finding new ways to bring them forward.

What made the leap from the mood board into the collection?

A lot of it, actually. We spent weeks moodboarding — pulling references from art, culture, music, dance, theatre, and our own archive. It was a really immersive process that helped shape the direction of the collection.

What emotions and thoughts from you are imbued in these pieces?

This collection really comes from a place of reflection. Hitting 25 years feels emotional, I’m looking back on where we started and thinking about the next steps for the brand. It’s a milestone that I’m incredibly proud of, and I know we wouldn’t have reached this point without the support of our friends, family, and all the amazing collaborators we’ve worked with along the way. There’s a lot of gratitude in these pieces, and a sense of excitement for what’s to come.

How is the DNA of Lee Mathews evolving?

Over time, we’ve developed a unique handwriting, and we embrace that by playing with our own body of work, deconstructing and reassembling it to create something new. While we’re always evolving, we never lose sight of the core brand codes that define us.

Recycling, repurposing, renewal. These are all important things in the world of 10. How do these apply to your work?

Recycling, repurposing, and renewal are key parts of our design process. We always hold onto excess fabrics with the intention of using them in future collections. It's something we’ve become known for, taking fabrics we love and splicing them together in new exciting silhouettes. We also work with some fantastic recycled fabrics, and that continues in this collection.

Which piece would you hope to be the ultimate collector’s item?

The ultimate collector’s item for me would be the crinoline dress designed in collaboration with Renata Brenha. The silhouette is exaggerated, the volume dialed up, but we kept the construction exposed to maintain a sense of purity and intention. It’s almost more than clothing, it’s been pushed to such an extreme. To me, it’s everything.

Who would you love to see wearing it? Which look would they be wearing?

At its core, it’s a very wearable, signature collection. I can imagine our loyal customers really connecting with it and I see my friends, artists, and creatives wearing it too. It feels true to who we are.

There are brilliant people to collaborate with in Australia. Who has been part of your journey with this collection?

For this collection, we had the pleasure of working with artist Nina Walton, whose exclusive prints are featured throughout the collection. Hair was styled by Kevin Murphy, and skin and makeup were by RATIONALE, two aligned Australian brands we were honoured to collaborate with.

What’s important to you aside from fashion? How would you like to use your platform?

My friends and family mean the most to me — they’re everything. But outside of that, it’s art, music, theatre… all the best things. The things that move you and keep you curious.

What is the soundtrack to this collection?

The soundtrack for the show draws heavily from the work of René Aubry, a French composer. Much of his music was created for theater and dance, and I first came across his work when I watched Pina, a film tribute to the choreographer Pina Bausch. His music has always resonated deeply with me, and it feels like the perfect backdrop for this collection.

What’s next?

Relaxing… before we get started on the next collection!

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