Daylight! The Fondazione Space all colourful and vast. And incredible baby pink, dusty yellow and red tiles for the runway – gold pillars, a nod to the gold “haunted house” that sits in the middle of the Fondazione Prada. And Wes Anderson front row. Oh, and Nicole Kidman front row. Hello. Welcome to Prada SS2020. A collection “for the woman, the person. not the fashion” Miuccia Prada told us after the show. But first, the collection – shell necklaces, because why not; sou’wester style hats; and the overarching simplicity of cotton muslin dresses almost like pretty ‘90s shrouds if such a thing could exist – decorated sparsely with shimmering ‘paisley’ feathers. Something found that had just floated into the collection. Treasures. Pleasures. Frayed edges. Raw hems. Sturdy sandals. Woven leather flats. Bowling bags. A gold swish of glitter. A velvet coat dress and lace ups with thick platform soles. Classic Prada geometric knits. Adut werkin’ it. A suit reminiscent of the past. Black powder lightly under the eyebrows. A 1920’s Hollywood carmine lip. An elegant simplicity. A little librarian and nerd, she’s thoughtful. Ali McGraw-ish. Clothes to keep. The collection called simply “A Style” was “a reduction to an essence” – Mrs Prada is good at that, she doesn’t really need to explain herself as what she does every season is complex, subtle. She may be in the business of producing clothes but she is also keenly aware that we are over saturated with choice and excess. This was Mrs Prada keeping it lean and keeping it real, her way. Post fashion modernism perhaps? Or just something inconsequential and inexplicably subtle. As she said to us: “fashion is not forever but the pieces can be forever – not disposable. It’s more about personal style.” We love that.
by Alison Veness