Ingenue chic is the default dress code at Miu Miu with an added layer of Gen-Z attitude on top. Storm Reid, the 16-year-old Euphoria actress opened the show in a crumpled silk gown and heavy wool coat which crystallised the glam and grunge message of the collection. Outerwear played a starring role (alongside Rita Ora who made a cameo catwalk appearance). There were long tweed, floor-sweepers, empire line leather maxis, fuzzy fake-fur chubbies, silk down jackets belted at the waist, and vivid leopard print coats to wear and keep forever. Nostalgia is another important Miu Miu ingredient. The audience sat on old velvet cinema seats and listened to a stellar soundtrack of broadway standards mixed with Lou Reed and David Bowie. But Miu Miu’s take on nostalgia always has a twist. 1960s-style gowns in grungy plaid had glittering bejewelled bibs, and spiked, steel toe cap sling backs (worn with crystal encrusted tulle) brought a sense of rebellion to all the throwback finery. There’s nothing more Miu Miu than that.
by Claudia Croft