54 looks for 54 years. Last night’s Roman spectacle paid homage to the long and fruitful partnership between the late Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi. A relationship that spanned for over half a century generated fashion moments that defined the times. For AW19 haute couture, the Italian fashion house headed by Silvia Venturini Fendi hand-picked Lagerfeld’s archive sketches which then informed elements of the new collection. Starting with the late 1960s and early 1970s, in an even more glamorous interpretation of Michele Pfeiffer’s costumes from Scarfaces. Slick, sexy and completed with that long disco bob, the Fendi girls paraded down in an updated take of a bougie lady on a mission.
As the collection grew, the volume amplified, and it became clear the inspiration hailed further back than the 1970s. The clothes celebrated Rome in its ancient glory, taking cues from the classical architecture through the graphic lines, as well as the renaissance silhouettes of the gowns that marched in the final part of the collection. But as a whole, the Fendi couture woman was reinstated through that cinematic allure of Federico Fellini. Enrobed in opulence and glamour, the clothes she lives in take a lot from the past, but speak a language of utter modernity.
Without the creative who crafted the contemporary definition of Fendi for decades, the Italian house is at a turning point. But with the talent of Venturini Fendi at the helm, it’s safe to say they’re headed for gold. The shiny, Roman gold.