The new direction for the house of Chanel comes from a lighter, youthful perspective and so Virginie Viard sent out teeny weeny hot pants worn over opaque tights; tweed playsuits and short bubble skirts. The Spring Summer 2020 collection was high on tweeds shot through with some hot pink neon threads; and the final five or so evening dresses in organza were a terrific play on weightless froth. We like froth. SS20 has signalled a throwback toward the more minimal tomboyish 90s – balanced with a wave of pastoral/at time lavish Marie Antoniette-ish escapism. Yes, 18th century panier skirts are the go. Chanel slipped into the new season somewhere between the two with its quintessentially French Coco Chanel Boy Capel meets Jean Seberg sense in the tailoring and simplicity juxtaposed with the playfulness of the flared skirts full of sass and balloon sleeves. The new graphic Chanel print on the lush silks echoed the rooftop skyline of the set in the Grand Palais. But instead of chimneys smoking or a perfect storm whipping up around us, what we saw was what we got. For the new Chanel in 2020 is grounded in reality.
by Alison Veness