What are Riccardo Tisci’s ambitions for Burberry? A not-so-subtle clue – the show venue in Shepherd’s Bush was emblazoned with a version of the Burberry logo that was so big it could be seen from space – evidence of the global appeal of Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry. Three seasons into his tenure and the Italian designer is pivoting Burberry away from a Brit-centric house towards a global luxury audience. The customers are lapping it up, with sales figures rising across the house’s many categories. London’s biggest show by far, Burberry is all about scale. This season did not hold back: from the vast set punctuated by sculptural white speakers pumping out a soundscape designed by DJ William Djoko, to the number of looks – 100 – and a newly blonde Kendall Jenner making her first runway appearance of the season.
The fashion message has moved on from the segregated idea of boy, girl, lady and gentleman. Those categories blurred and melded into a general sense of dressed up sophistication. The scope and scale was impressive. The show started with inside-out tailoring (a booming area for Burberry) and a slew of appealing scarf printed blouses and dresses (clearly an area Tisci wants to grow). Victorian leg of mutton silhouettes were rendered in draped jersey and lace – materials that Tisci has always excelled at sculpting. Sexy, modern cocktail wear is new for Burberry but has always been a Tisci speciality. Add corset detailing, dressy jackets, ruched mini skirts and a slew of stunning crystal and feathered red carpet gowns and suddenly Burberry is a serious after-dark proposition.
Tisci didn’t forget the street (he was the first designer to meld hoodies and haute couture). Unisex striped rugby shirts, nylon parkas and monochrome tie-dyed hoodies brought an urban element into the mix. Sophisticated, well cut, modern, global, confident and oozing sexuality; Tisci’s Burberry is an ever-expanding universe. The scale is huge, the ambition is clear and up close, it looks strong.
by Claudia Croft