Life is ephemeral. So fast, so fleeting. A few laughs along the way. Some friends. Failures. The odd triumph. And that’s just the wardrobe. Ahhh, ’tis a season and an issue reverberating with nostalgia, life flashing by. A touch of the boogie-wonderland ’70s, the wild ’80s, the less-wild ’90s and the ashy Noughties… and the nowness. The now being the most exciting, as it offers a tentative take on the future as well, which, upon closer inspection, seems robust and optimistic. OMG such an OG, strong, chic woman – yes, she surfaced in a wave of tailored, put-together looks referencing the Rive Droite bourgeoisie. It was a look that swelled across the new season, from New York, London and Milan to Paris, which kinda took everyone by surprise. And so athleisure died a death, the consensus being that it should be strictly limited to the gym or off-duty looks. The sneaker was given a breather because it’s done its time – though it hasn’t gone and won’t be forgotten. It’s been kicked to the kerb for now by the boot – studded at Alexander McQueen, combat at Prada, revved up into a motorbike boot at Bottega Veneta, and a man-style lace-up to stride out in at Louis Vuitton. Or you could initiate parley with an entire army of sculptural heels.
Yes, push the detail, which is why we sought out Priscilla Royer, the supercool creative director at Maison Michel – they make the best hats and she gives the best hat advice. Channelling our inner best we were compelled to showcase Daniel Lee’s fearless Bottega Veneta that is sublimely now, and maybe a tiny bit reminiscent of the ’90s. Society. Money. Boom. Cue Fernanda Ly, immaculate in Fendi and shot by the amazing fine artist Darren Sylvester in Melbourne. And cue Nathalie Kelley drippin’ in B.zero1 Bulgari, werking her inner OG Wasp for Bec Parsons’s lens and playing it up for us with her ludes and all the Serpenti diamonds. Because she can.
On a more serious note, we spoke to artist Wu Tsang in Sydney to introduce her Frieze/Gucci-commissioned lm that explores the idea of the second summer of love, another nostalgic moment (1988) that is so relevant today, especially when we are looking to redress the inequalities of race and gender. Tsang’s work is brilliantly subtle, but extra.
So as much as this issue explores dressing up and recalling some major fashion/cultural moments – see the features by Laura Craik and Colin McDowell – it’s also about waking up, speaking up, and being heard.
by Alison Veness
Issue 14, ‘SOCIETY, MONEY, SUBMIT’ is on newsstands today.