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Men

THOM BROWNE: MENSWEAR SS20

Monday 24th June 2019

The collegiate worlds of various sports collided with the exquisite world of ballet at the Thom Browne SS20 show. Set in the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts: the home of fine arts teaching in Paris; it was a beautiful backdrop for Thom Browne’s clever blend of sportswear-flexed line-out. This included the shoulder pads of American footballers (in jackets and coats), their masks, too, broken down and abstracted; even the lace-up football became a bum bag. The ovoid shape became padding on elbows and elsewhere on one beautifully crafted coat, too.

At the beginning of the show: fun! When a tutu-wearing ballet dancer James Whiteside (of American Ballet Theatre) unzipped models (who were stood on plinths) and wearing fancy zip-bags (the kind you keep in your wardrobe) to reveal exquisite cotton Seersucker shorts suits in pastels and a delicious lemon. It was bizarre and beautiful. In the centre of the runway a Manekken Pis – the 61 cm bronze sculpture and tourist must-see in the centre of Brussels. Brown rendered his version in a material tape. Tennis balls in tape surrounded the statue. It was a cheeky allegory for the “sportswear codes meets high art and culture” inspiration behind this master-tailor’s mood next spring. Such brilliant fun.

by Richard Gray

www.harrolds.com.au

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