Today marked Paul Andrew’s first menswear collection for the house. He began designing women’s shoes for the House in 2016 then took over the womenswear. Such has been his ingenuity and vision. He is the one because he is brilliant and so right for Ferragamo. His debut menswear collection was titled Homecoming – perhaps because it was set in Florence, where Mr Ferragamo really began to create his label. There was the classic Italian man in all his loosely tailored open shirts and cloudy blue suits but this season with a newfound swag felt in those double-zipped vests and slouchy boiler suits. Almost translucent windbreakers felt good paired with perfectly pleated trousers and a big sueded calfskin bag. There was a total ease, this is their home turf and they knew it. Rich ripe black cherry napa leather bonded with cotton jersey and Adriatic sea blues thin drawstring hoodies felt good for spring summer and flashes of hot pinks and oranges were ready for the coming months. There was a good selection of shoes – as there should be – in leather sandals, laced suede sandal-boots inspired by Mr Ferragamo’s 1951 ‘Kimo’ and stripped back sneakers and espadrilles using local Tuscan artisan’s intricate weaving techniques. Paul gives us options. According to Paul, the Ferragamo man has “lived and loved, won and lost.” Yes, he is wise. He knows what’s up. As does Paul.
by Roxy Lola