Inside the gardens of the Villa Palmieri in the Florentine Palace, Clare Waight Keller showed her first standalone menswear show for the house of Givenchy. She likes a royal affair. An Italian setting for a French label designed by an Englishwoman inspired by Korea. Multicultural. The street life of Korea was what Waight Keller had tuned into; the way that the men who roam there are so in sync, layered up in accessories and fastidious when it comes to fashion. She’s had the hypebeasts satisfied with the Pre-Spring collection in all its slick streetwear and Givenchy stamping and branding but this was smarter, sharper and smoother. These boys swaggered in three-piece suits in shades of pretty lavender and energising blues. Streamlined streetwear was still happening with 90s wide legged trousers piled just right with double belts and chains. Korea’s influence ran deep into the fabrics: nylon, on coats, blended with velvet on jackets and trousers. It all looked so soft. Charles Baudelaire was referenced in the show notes and his poetry does feel quite right: “heavy lids of low skies” and “the restless crowd whipped on by pleasure” fit into the bustling world-ending dystopia in which the Givenchy men confidently glide through in a sunset orange singlet or fire engine red oversized raincoat. That sweet spot between streetwear and suiting. We like a stepping stone. It was called Nouveau Glitch. And a Givenchy glitch in the system is always good.