“I was a good boy, you were a good boy, we were good boys,” says the voice on UK producer Rian Treanor’s ‘Ataxia_A1’ track, over the disjointed beat on a synth melody. The voice rings out robotic, perfectly spoken, almost monotonously evil. That precise perfection was the heart of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s AW20 collection, with its sharp cuts, tailoring and sneaky detail. It was a lesson in back to basics, but there ain’t nothing basic about Fendi, so re-imagined classics were elevated, evolved and not what they seem. “We have to be prepared to live in hard times,” Venturini Fendi said backstage. And such hard times are made easier by a smart, clever wardrobe. The core was the iconic, warm, makes-you-feel-good Fendi yellow that drenched leather shopper bags, handknit wool in brilliantly oversized scarves and on our favourite Fendi charms. Charming. The good boys gleamed in fine leather jackets and trousers, reversible outerwear that secretly held an array of multi-pocket insertions, jackets cut sharply at the waist and sly splices on shorts and coats to create new shapes. It made us look twice, drool over, as Fendi so often does, as we watched them stomp in their high and low lug-soled boots. This show confirmed that slouchy boot is The Shoe this season, FYI. It flowed, transforming, all a celebration of quintessential Fendi in rich browns, soft greys and flashes of jade, burnt red and a new Code print, reworking the FF logo into a chain link pattern. A collaboration with Japanese designer Anrealage who first utilised UV sunlight for colour-changing fabric future-fied photochromic sporty outerwear and accessories – when exposed to sunlight, the white tiger quilting shines in that sun-like Fendi yellow. Well, it’s 2020.
by Roxy Lola