Samuel Ross is taking over. His low-key ACW symbol is proudly being worn by Britain’s best in grime and rap – most recently Skepta as he promotes his new album; and his protege Slow Thai. It’s the label that the kids want and its the label that London’s superstars are aligning themselves with. Into the South London warehouse of Printworks lay the set for A-Cold-Wall’s Spring Summer 2020 show, the end to our LFWM. This was a collection stripped back, down to basic: clay, water, glass and led were the inspiration. And so there was a real down to earth feel, a fight or flight mode as they emerged looking roughed up, covered in snow? dust? sand? – whatever it was they’d been fighting for their lives, we’re sure of it. This was their armour – the kind of collection that will take you through anything. It was less streetwear and more survival – fitting for the climate. The show was open to the public and his loyal ACW-clad troops swarmed to see what will be next. There’s something special about the ride or die army Samuel is leading. For the fighters.