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STANDING GROUND: SS25

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Standing Ground is in a class of its own. It exists on another plane. A place where taste and technique marries with beautiful invention. Michael Stewart made chic dreams come true in supple, sinuous jersey, silk, velvet and soft leather packed with cleverness and craft. The precision of his cut and drape was in the service of total elegance. Beads encased in jersey formed the main decoration, radiating in sunburst lines, across his gowns. Superlative bias cutting accentuated every curve, immaculately. Soft leather cut into doublet jackets added to the sensual effect.

The thought, care and discipline applied to each look is impressive. Radical even. You won’t see London’s scrappy energy and punky proclivities in the Standing Ground aesthetic – which owes more to Madame Gres (fashion’s great sculptor) than to Westwood or McQueen. But London’s ‘Fuck You’ factor is there. It’s not expressed in anarchy but in the total and uncompromising perfectionism and dedication to craft, line and drape. These are beautifully made, gorgeously crafted clothes – museum worthy, collectible and very special. Bravo.

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