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We swoon. Painterly Marie Laurencin and Edouard Manet inspired colours and tones/brush strokes ran delicately through the Chanel Haute Couture 2021/22 collection. Paris is so game on.The linebacker oversize coats had us right from the beginning all super tweedy and generously ever-so-softly shrugged over the fluttering, distressed tulle skirts.To coincide with the major retrospective ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ at the Palais Galliera fashion museum, the collection was presented in the outdoor courtyard, the first live catwalk presentation by Chanel in 18 months. With the ‘teaser’ pre collection fashion film directed by Sofia Coppola and her brother Roman it promised a simple and eloquent joie de vie with Margaret Qualley in the starring role venturing into 31 Rue Cambon to Siouxsie and the Banshees Belladonna. The kind of punk ‘under’ approach that Coppola brings with her films has always informed Chanel’s DNA. It all looks supremely effortless even though the pieces have taken thousands of hours to create from the hands of the Lesage embroiderers through to the weaving of the tweed, the tiny perfectly placed paillettes, the distribution of the delicate feathers - all the extras are a hot bed of wow. The codes of both Coco and Karl are the history of the House and next season's play on proportion and romance, and a certain tomboyish irreverence within the collection are the vision of Virginie Viard as she continues to create her own manifesto.