Chitose Abe is in her element. The queen of deception, the most polished person to do deconstruction in a resolved way that you can actually go and wear to death. Yes, her technical abilities shine through in every garment yet always with a gentle fineness to them. Sacai AW18 had a serious strength, a new energy. Girls were walking fast paced in clothes not for the future but for right now. This is Sacai’s season. Fabulous dismembered puffa jackets were sewn back up with new patches of azure blues and deep blood red stripes that glissaded over the body in tights, gloves and even onto the laced up ankle boots. Coats were dissected into part wool, part suit jacket and so on. It was all happening. Kilts were deconstructed, paired with simple polo neck jumpers and thigh high mega tartan print stepped through, powered forward by bright yellow brilliance. What looked to be a Native American print weaved into knits that fell apart at the sleeves yet still wrapped them up against the big bad world. Cozy. Double denim was furred on up, even cozier. Puffa jackets held their shine, strips of colour zoomed down the side of loose pants, a sense of athleticism here. These girls are on the move. Chitose is in her stride, somehow managing to make her strong signature stand out and feel so fresh each season. There was a stability in all it’s wildness. It just felt good. Really great things that we want now.
by Roxy Lola
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans