This was, in the words of Stuart Vevers, no ordinary transitional Coach collection, but a “specific moment” – a stand alone capsule collection that plays on dark and foreboding themes hidden beneath seemingly innocuous ones, apparently. It’s all rather clever really, but we’ve come to expect nothing less from Mr. Vevers.
This “American gothic fairytale, born in New York,” according to Vevers, gives hints of fantasy, here undercut with something more ominous – gone were any traditional saccharine Snow White references, here replaced with poisoned apples and sets of menacing eyes. Scary! Even the accompanying lookbook neglected the chance to indulge in well-trodden depictions of the New York Christmas fairytale, instead, opting for the grittier backdrop of downtown Peep shows. The clothes reflected something similar – delicate use of lace, idyllic prints and embroidery spoke of more conventional fairytale visions, but the whip-stitching bags, chain link straps and rub-off leather jackets upended any notions of your typical Disney fairytale – this is, after all, New York, baby – no better embodied than those utterly fabulous lace up leather boots, because who even wants a glass slipper nowadays?
by Finn Blythe