Fusing garments that really belong in a different drawer with something that should have been hung properly in that wardrobe in the spare bedroom; Thom Browne created a series of closet chimeras: coats conjoined with cardis and a jumper. These many-armed monsters hung from models with Sellotape pulled across their faces like a mad Insta-filter. It spoke of flat-packed fast-fashion where your Amazon order fuses to the next, or packing far too much for a weekend away. To give the illusion of volume: padding gave a coat new proportions. Browne’s not just been thinking “flat and fused” but in bulk as well. Unfused and separate, these garments were a Thom Browne lesson in tailoring and technique: congratulations on both counts to the pattern room. There were some sensational slim-fit coats and blazers. And those trompe-l’oeil doctor’s bags!
by Richard Gray