This was Jonathan Anderson’s first runway show for Loewe menswear: cable-knit jumpers sewn with semi-precious stones looked vintage, as did a long-sleeved jumper covered with all manner of patches, a Liberty-print shirt, looked wrongly fastened but the shirt hem was, in fact, cut one side longer than the other. All on purpose, of course; all drawn from Anderson’s skewed sense of perfection. It crashed together (elegantly) the world of college sports (rugby jumper) with Savile Row (the softest wool suits). Things were stretched and overly long: long sleeves and long knits; long trousers and long leather waders! The zips on the inside seam of these, were left open and slid into leather shoes. Had “he” got dressed in a hurry? Was he a fisherman who’d missed his alarm call before his trawler set off for sea? It was madness. Anderson is a beachcomber: collecting moments and bits for thither and yon for his world of bricolage. His design process involves found photographs and books, other people’s snapshots; their lives in clothes. It’s a fascinating way to create with beautiful results.
by Richard Gray